Posts tagged big waves

Big wave surfing

Big waves and big wave riding has been much more in the media spotlight due to some amazing footage of huge waves around the world being ridden. But the big change that has happened in the world of big wave riding is the introduction of tow–in surfing. Tow-in surfing is where you are whipped onto these massive waves  by a partner on a jet sky pulling you on the end of a tow rope and you are riding a short board. Before tow – in surfing, big wave riders had to rely on their own paddle power and large surf boards known as big wave guns, these boards were often over 10 feet long .

The problem with paddling into big waves is that there is a limit to the size of wave that you can physically paddle into and catch successfully. This is because of the speed at which these waves are moving, and the speed at which water is moving up the face of these waves can be too fast for paddling. Now with the advent of tow-in surfing we are seeing many more big waves being ridden, it’s now a situation of big bigger biggest.

There are a couple of notable big waves in the Newquay area close to Fistral beach. One of these is known as the Cribbar. The Cribbar is the reef that runs out to sea of the headland next to little Fistral, it is usually ridden around low tide and starts breaking when the swell gets over about 3 metres. It has been ridden regularly over the past few years, and has made some of the national papers as some of the top local surfers have been towed onto it and occasionally paddled onto it. The wave breaks both ways, the right being the safer ride, with more shoulder, the left can wall up all the way back to the headland.

As the swell increases the wave breaks further out to sea, you could say that on 3 metre swells it brakes on the first part of the reef about 100-200 meters out from the headland, as the swell gets around 5-6 metres it will break further out on the second part of the reef, then as the swell reaches a huge 7-9 metres it will break a long way out 400 metres plus, with wave faces in excess of  30 – 40 ft. We have yet to see it being ridden at its glorious best , when it happens it will be a thrilling spectacle, with a large local crowd  gathered on the headland.

I watched the Cribbar break massive on a few occasions in the late 80s and early 90s with perfect conditions of lined up ground swell and light off-shore winds, but nobody out. Weather patterns don’t seem to create the perfect conditions as much now (is this due to global warming?).

The Zorba reef!!

Well this big wave spot which has not yet been properly explored  in terms of surfing, is out of Pentire headland and a little bit to the north,  and is a right hand reef.

The Zorba starts to break  around low tide when the swell gets to 5 metres plus, and looks to have great potential as a big wave spot when the swell gets to 8 plus metres. The local big wave crew are patiently waiting for conditions, swell and wind to conspire to get the Zorba reef working. Waves are seen breaking on the Zorba every winter , but rideable conditions are rare. Like big Cribbar, the Zorba breaks a long way out to sea, so is very sensitive to wind, and can only be ridden in glassy or light off-shore wind conditions with a massive ground swell.

The Zorba looks like it may be strictly a tow-in wave, as it starts breaking with wave faces already  20ft plus, and who knows, wave face heights may reach 50 ft or more.

I have surfed for many years with a young Welsh big wave surfer called Tom. He is now 19 years old. I only surf with him when the swell is under 6ft! The rest of the time I watch! He loves paddling into big waves. I think he will make a name for himself in the realm of big wave surfing , go Tom!!!! Above is a picture of him surfing big waves in Morocco.

If and when the Cribbar or Zorba reef breaks massive, I will endeavour to be on the headlands with camera in hand, as will be many other locals. I am well exited at the prospect. Unfortunately a lot of the local big wave crew would rather be elsewhere in the world in the winter riding fantastic warm water waves . Maybe one day they’ll stay in Newquay and ride the Zorba reef!